I planned to walk the streets of Paris, play in parks, ride carasouls and eat lots of great food. Maybe I hoped to linger in museums, spend quality time witih my friend Nancy, and eat some of that great food sitting down in great restaurants, but I wasn’t counting on it.

So, my expectations were fair and well met.

I love the smells of Paris—the steam rising off the hot chocolate, the boulangerie on every corner, even the particular stink of the subway. That subway smell reminds me of my time as a student. We got to smell them all all day long.

What we did not smell were cigarettes. I used to feel so oppressed every time I went into a café; the smoke made me feel trapped. The French have a no smoking law that will go into effect soon, but it may just be I couldn’t actually spend time in the café--antsy kids. So, I spent time at the sidewalk tables. And who knew you could get hot chocolate to go? I walked into a café fully expecting I would have to sit at a little table with Rose when the bartender offered to make it a emporter and pas tres chaud. He even smiled and gave her two straws. (To be fair to the old French reputation, the next two times we went in, the other bartender accommodated us more grudgingly.)

I love the grill work, how every window has a different intricate pattern outlining it. And the architecture and the city planning. Of course, you should be able to look down a long boulevard and see grand buildings, statues, and fountains. Walking Paris is a joy.

Oh, let’s not forget people watching. The scarves of course. The tight skirts and high heels. Gay men seem to be shaving their heads this year. Black and white are in. We watched people kiss passionately on bridges, park benches, and street corners late at night. They act as though the world has stopped, the world must stop for this bliss.

But for real bliss, let’s talk about food. I took my first bite of ham sandwich and swooned. The food is going to get its own entry.

I planned on five museums; we got to three. I planned three dinners out; we got four, but three involved periodic trips around the block with David. I planned long talks with my friend Nancy and mostly got her adjusting my back or snatching phrases in between feeding David buckwheat crepes, but we did get to hug which doesn’t happen when she lives in Pittsburgh and I in Seattle. We rode a carousel every day, and they were all lovely.