Free wifi in the Moscow airport! Ain't technology grand? Just passing through, spent a lovely 2 hours between planes having coffee with a Japanese woman who was also in transit, had been my seat mate on the flight from Rome, and knew how to maneuver through this airport, which, as you might imagine, isn't as straightforward as it could be. It's clean and bright, though, and has caffeine, though it's unbelievably expensive. (I was warned, and therefore prepared.) But caffeine when you need it, (like when you got up at 4:00 a.m. to make your plane after a final late night walk with your buddies in Assisi) in the company of someone who's not only charming but has kept you from going into the wrong passport control line and making a big mess: priceless. And no, I didn't need a visa.